Monday, June 08, 2009

The demise of the US beer cask (circa 1903)

I've often wondered when cask ale died off in the US. When was the use of kegs —and pressurized gas draught— introduced? Was it just before or after Prohibition, or was it earlier?

Here's some evidence pointing to the latter. Beer blogger Ron Pattinson has posted a segment from a report on a trip to Britain by some American brewers about the turn of the 20th century.

Drawing by means of gas or air pressure has been tried, but the cost and the fact that the English casks are not made to withstand this additional pressure, have much retarded the application of such systems. It is probable, however, that within the near future a gradual disappearance of the pumping systems, to which there are many objections, will take place.

"Transactions of the American Brewing Institute" 1907, pages 255-256

The implication is that the Americans were practicing pressurized draught.

More overt evidence is provided by a comment left to Ron's post that leaves a link to this passage from 100 Years of Brewing, a reliable historical brewing text, published in 1903.


In the year 1888, liquefied carbonic gas [CO2] was introduced by Jacob Bauer, who afterward organized the Liquid Carbonic Acid Manufacturing Company, of Chicago. At first it was used by the mineral water trade only, but soon thereafter was introduced for the drawing and preservation of beer, and at the present time practically seventy-five per cent of all the beer supplied in wood is preserved with and drawn with and under carbonic acid gas pressure, so at this time it is no longer a question or a matter of doubt as to the successful use of carbonic gas for drawing beer.

By 1903, most kegs may still have been manufactured from wood, but it appears that at least in the US, they were being served by pressurized CO2 draught systems. Handpulled beer, and by implication, cask-conditioned beer, was fast on its way out.

That is, until recent history.

2009 RAMMYS announced

Here —courtesy Michael Birchenall, editor and publisher of Foodservice Monthly— is the list of winners in the 2009 RAMMYs, the annual awards of the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington, only announced last evening.

  • Fine Dining Restaurant of the Year: Restaurant Eve
  • Chef of the Year: Robert Wiedmaier of Marcel's, Brasserie Beck and Brabo
  • New Restaurant of the Year: Cork
  • Wine & Beverage Program: CityZen
  • Upscale Casual Restaurant of the Year: Rasika
  • Neighborhood Gathering Place: The Liberty Tavern
  • Hottest Restaurant Bar Scene: CoCo. Sala
  • Pastry Chef of the Year: Kate Jansen – Willow
  • Rising Culinary Star: Tony Chittum – Vermilion
  • Restaurant Manager of the Year: Ryland Johnson – Zola
  • Restaurant Employee of the Year: Juan Francisco Lopez – Marcel’s/Brasserie Beck
  • Joan Hisaoka Associate Member: Belair Produce Inc./Watermark Foods
  • Power Spot of the Year: Central Michel Richard
  • Your Favorite Restaurant of the Year: Teatro Goldoni
  • 2009 RAMMY 'Where Magazine' Visitors' Choice Award: The Prime Rib
  • RAMW 2009 Duke Zeibert Capital Achievement Award: Dimitri Mallios
  • 2009 RAMMY Honorary Award: Billy Martin’s Tavern
Congratulations to all.

YFGF usually covers only things beer, and in a general manner. Then again, I am based in the greater Washington, D.C. area, and I do occasionally eat out.

But ... why no award for best beer & spirits program?

The Blues and Whisky: Koko Taylor

I wrote this about beer and jazz:

Good beer is like good music: with an introduction, an exposition, and a coda, it tells a story.

Beer raconteur Bob Tupper has his own jazz allusion for beer:
Ale is like "a jazz quartet. Each member goes his own way, but all finish together. A lager, in contrast, is like a string quartet. It is a seamless composition."

But the Blues ... the Blues is a shot of whisky.

In the early 1980s, I became familiar with blues singer Koko Taylor through her recordings: a big, cutting, chainsaw of a voice.

But those recordings did not prepare me for the one time I saw —and heard— Ms. Tayor live at her club in Chicago in 1992, after her successful comeback from health complications. Her take that night on Mannish Boy —I'm a W-O-M-A-N— was so gutsy, so real, so scary, that it was —at the least— the equal of Muddy Waters' male manifesto.

At the time, I was in Chicago studying brewing at the Siebel Institute. But that evening, amazed and thrilled, I had whiskey.

Koko Taylor died Wednesday 3 June 2009 at age 80.

Sunday, June 07, 2009

Beer as ONE ingredient

Seemingly neglected in recent fervid discussions of pairing beer with food has been the technique of preparing food with beer.

The better recipes do not shout: I'm beer! I'm here! Rather, they introduce beer ingeniously and quietly, both as a cooking liquid and as an ingredient that is only one subtle part of a tapestry of flavor.

Chef Patrick Dinh of Tuscarora Mill in Leesburg, Virginia is a practitioner.

Chef Patrick Dinh

Witness Dinh's use of beer at a Clipper City Brewing Beer Dinner (3 June 2009).

He braised pheasant with a weizen dopplebock and finished it with a pale ale velouté sauce. (A velouté is one of the classic French sauces: stock thickened with a roux.) The ale added a meaty character to the velouté and a nuance of spicy bitterness. But if you hadn't known that Chef Dinh had used beer, you would have just appreciated the depth of flavor.

He also made a béarnaise, substituting a maerzen (German-style amber lager) for the wine normally found in this reduction sauce of vinegar, wine, tarragon, shallots, egg yolk, and butter.

More photos here. The entire menu:

Welcoming Beer
Small Craft Warning Uber Pils

Crispy Soft Shell Crab Fingers
with curry aioli, pickled daikon.

Paired with Red Sky at Night Saison (cask)

Beer-Braised Pheasant
with mushrooms, ale veloute.

Paired with Hang Ten Weizen Dopplebock (vintage 2008)

Pork & Pork
Roast Loin with braised fresh bacon, spiced cabbage with sultanas

Paired with Loose Cannon Hop3 Ale

Main course: NY Strip au Poivre

New York Strip au Poivre
with 'beer Bearnaise', whipped potatoes, Brussels sprouts, smoked bacon.

Paired with Winter Storm Imperial ESB (draught)

Raspberry Cheesecake
Paired with Peg Leg Imperial Stout

Clamps & Gaskets: Roundup for Week 22

Clamps and Gaskets: weekly wrap-upClamps and Gaskets is a weekly wrap-up of stories that I have not posted at Yours For Good Fermentables.com, but that, nevertheless, I find interesting or germane.

Most are concerned with beer, or wine, or whisk(e)y. Some are not. But all are brief. And many are re-posts from my Twitter account: twitter.com/cizauskas.

This is Week 22:
31 May - 6 June 2009

  • 2009.06.06
    From Washington DC-area good beer fan Stephen Lipps: his map of good beer bars/shops in Paris. Yes, good beer in Paris, France. http://bit.ly/E4io8

  • 2009.06.06
    "Beer is the new wine," says Hugh Sisson of Clipper City Brewing in Baltimore. The story at the Washington Times http://bit.ly/TAJyB

  • 2009.06.06
    Brewer at Washington DC's Capitol City Brewing reviews SAVOR as an indication of an "ever increasing profile and support for American craft beer." http://bit.ly/L4li2

  • 2009.06.06
    DC Foodies on Twitter: 40 Foodies, 3 Chefs, 13 Restaurants, 3 Food Trucks, 1 Gourmet Storehttp://bit.ly/127Kcf.

  • 2009.06.06
    Baltimore, Maryland, Oriole's Camden Yards is No. 9 on PETA's top 10 list of vegetarian friendly major league baseball ballparks. http://bit.ly/H77X7.

  • 2009.06.06
    Bowie, Maryland minor league baseball Baysox (Class AA) have a "Beers of Munich" Beer and Baseball Dinner on Thursday, June 18 at 6pm, for their game vs the Reading Phillies.http://bit.ly/d2iKI

  • 2009.06.06
    In Tennessee, it will soon to be illegal to serve alcohol to anyone with a CONCEALED weapon. Umm, how will the bartender know? http://bit.ly/PcuNV

  • 2009.06.06
    14 dirty words: the EU bans any non-European wines with these words on the bottle label: http://bit.ly/3xrPu

  • 2009.06.06
    Interested in writing beer history? A British beer historian offers a quick lesson in how to find brewing records: http://bit.ly/Htf7S.

  • 2009.06.05
    Albert Sisson, founder of pioneering Maryland brewpub Sisson's, has passed away. An appreciation: http://bit.ly/IgSPk

  • 2009.06.05
    States with low beer taxes have 2.2 times more breweries per capita than high excise tax states. http://tinyurl.com/nlg3p4

  • 2009.06.05
    91.4 % of polled SAVOR attendees said economy has NOT affected beer purchases. (Those attendees could afford the $95 ticket!) The rest of the stats http://bit.ly/6D6VW.
  • Heavy Seas Big DIPA
  • 2009.06.05
    Heavy Seas Big DIPA (as in Double India Pale Ale): 10.6 abv, 76 IBUs in 22-oz bottles, and draft, should arrive by late June. From Clipper City Brewing of Baltimore, Maryland. http://snurl.com/heavyseas

  • 2009.06.05
    Clipper City Brewing is now on Twitter: @HeavySeasBeer. A list of the 5 DC/MD/VA brewers on Twitter: http://bit.ly/dd31X

  • 2009.06.05
    Scotch whisky companies have pledged to cut their use of fossil fuels by 80% by 2050 http://bit.ly/60Yus

  • 2009.06.05
    John Hansell of Malt Advocate on drinks writers: They're divorced, unhealthy, childless, and with little free time to enjoy life. http://bit.ly/pRuqI

  • 2009.06.05
    It is NOT okay to Tweet during dinner ... and other Twitter etiquette, including how to re-Tweet. http://bit.ly/ABFtw

  • 2009.06.05
    Congratulations to 300-game winning baseball pitcher Randy Johnson. At least the inept Washington Nationals created history with their loss. http://bit.ly/w41N5

  • 2009.06.04
    DCist.com reviews SAVOR Craft Beer and Food Exposition. Asks: Too much of a good thing? And discusses beer/cheese/chocolate pairings http://bit.ly/A7DcV

  • 2009.06.03
    After exercise, it's better to drink beer than water: new research from Granada University in Spain. http://bit.ly/7hXE7

  • 2009.06.02
    Sour news from Belgium: 100,000 bottles of lambic and gueuze ruined at Drie Fontenien. http://viigo.im/LYw

  • 2009.06.02
    From Chef Bruce Paton: the ABCs of pairing food with beer, AND cooking with beer. Concise and unfussy. http://bit.ly/PTaJa

  • 2009.06.02
    After 6 month hiatus, Hugh Sisson of Clipper City Brewing returns to blogging. He asks: Organic Beer - What's the Point? (But responds favorably.) http://bit.ly/owF91

  • 2009.06.02
    A mixed review of SAVOR 2009 from BarlowBrewing Blog: Beer good. But "the food was just ... boring." http://cli.gs/sRj9XT

  • 2009.06.02
    Study finds 10% of Twitter users produce 90% of the tweets. Unlike most other social networks, men are the most active. http://bit.ly/v4kb0

  • 2009.06.02
    Study shows that HIGH state excise taxes lead to REDUCED revenues: 1999 study on cross-state-border beer buying. http://bit.ly/Fmx4G

  • 2009.06.02
    China blocks Twitter, Blogger, and other sites in lead-up to 20th anniversary of Tiananmen Square massacre. http://tcrn.ch/2zn

  • Chef Barton Seaver

  • 2009.06.01
    Metrocurean blog reports Washington DC's 'Sustainable Seafood' Chef Barton Seaver has returned to the kitchen. He's the chef at new Blue Ridge Restaurant. http://bit.ly/m96lJ

  • 2009.06.01
    Clipper City Brewing's Red Sky at Night Saison: Baltimore Examiner Beer of the Week. Flavorful alternative to standard 'summer wheat ales'. http://bit.ly/LAsN6

  • 2009.06.01
    Map of current US beer excise taxes, by state: http://bit.ly/OepQ2

  • 2009.06.01
    An analysis --with many useful links-- of the folly of heavy beer excise taxes. http://bit.ly/9Phnp

  • 2009.06.01
    For brewers: a 1917 analysis of the advantage of using' invert sugar' vs. refined sugar: http://bit.ly/UTnle

  • 2009.05.31
    General Motors to declare bankruptcy on Monday. US gov stake to be 60%. Union vs investor issues. http://bit.ly/PqGQu

  • Azalea sunrise

  • 2009.05.31
    "the flowers /Stream from the hawthorn on the wind away . . . / Pass me the can, lad; there's an end of May" -A.E. Housman

  • 2009.05.31
    Nine Twitter Tips For Business. It's FREE guerrilla marketing. Just don't abuse it. http://bit.ly/dfB78

  • 2009.05.31
    Jill Richardson's new book-- Recipe for America: Why Our Food System is Broken http://tr.im/mZ6x

  • 2009.05.31
    Hockey's Stanley Cup is the only sports trophy out of which the winners drink beer. From Draft Magazine: http://viigo.im/Kbl

  • 2009.05.31
    The Mad Fermentationist reviews SAVOR: mostly good for the beer (Russian River Consecration), but only so-so for the food. http://bit.ly/rHFB8

  • 2009.05.31
    'You must name and blame the good guys.' Paraphrasing Marc Fisher who has written his last column for the Washington Post. http://bit.ly/10GDVH

  • 2009.05.31
    Austrian and German health ministries find traces of cocaine in Red Bull Cola. Company says 'de-cocained' coca leaf only. http://bit.ly/HaIor

  • 2009.05.31
    In the 2000s, the Brewers Assoc (US) rejects corn and rice in craft beer. In 1880s England, the use of sugar was decried. http://bit.ly/RM2fH

  • 2009.05.31
    2nd wettest month of May on record in the Washington DC area. 10.10" of rain at Dulles by yesterday - and more today. http://tr.im/mVxj
The Clamps and Gaskets graphic was created by NotionsCapital.