"The beer list", announces the waiter as he sets a thick black book on the able. If you ask, you can have a consultation with the house specialist, Bill Catron. Take advantage of his service. Catron has assembled 80 or so first-class brews, and he and his staff talk them up with a reverence typically associated with sommeliers. If you don't usually drink beer, chance are you'll be a convert when you leave. If you're a devotee, you'll be in brew heaven.
I took special notice of Sietsma's mention of the double-fried "french fries" (Sietsma should have called them Belgian-style frites) and the beef stew made with Chimay, a Trappist ale.
Sietsma does briefly dip into the thesaurus of condescension that winos and/or foodies sometimes use when describing beer (which reflects on their paucity of knowledge rather than their topic):
As he did with Marcel's, Wiedmaier named his second restaurant after a son. Beck is both another chip off the old block and a fizzy [emphasis mine] addition to the city.
Would Sietsma say of a wine-centric restaurant: "a flat addition" (as in no bubbles)?
But all in all, it's a positive and spot-on review. Save up, and go!